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These are all "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if
the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the trans-
ducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place
without tools.
Depending on your sonar unit's connectors, your transducer cable may
also have the sonar unit's power cable attached to it. If that is the case,
be sure to install the transducer first, before connecting the power cable
to a power source. See the instructions later in this manual for connect-
ing the power cable to a battery or other power supply.
Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation.
Determine which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Use
extreme care if mounting the transducer inside the hull, because once
it is epoxied into position, the transducer usually cannot be removed.
Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part
of a sonar installation.
Recommended Tools and supplies
If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you
will need a 5/8" drill bit. Each transom mount requires use of a high
quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound.
NOTE:
The following installation types also call for these recommended
tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):
Single-frequency transom installations
Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flat-
head screwdriver (for mounting screws and their pilot holes). Supplies:
none.
Single-frequency trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic
cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your
boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, specially for-